What Is Exfoliation? AHA, BHA, PHA and How to Exfoliate Your Skin

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Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin.

In skincare, exfoliation can be done physically, with scrubs or tools, or chemically, with ingredients such as AHA, BHA, and PHA.

When used properly, exfoliation can help skin look smoother and help with concerns such as dullness and clogged pores. But stronger and more frequent exfoliation is not always better.

Exfoliation can be used on both the face and body, but this article focuses mainly on facial exfoliation.

What Is Exfoliation, and Do You Really Need It?

Your skin is constantly making new cells. Older cells gradually move toward the surface and eventually shed naturally.

This ongoing renewal process is often called skin turnover.

You may have heard that skin turnover takes “28 days,” but this is not an exact cycle that applies to everyone. The timing can vary from person to person and also depends on how skin turnover is measured.

It also does not mean that you need to exfoliate once every 28 days. Skin turnover is a natural process, while how often you use an exfoliating product depends on the product and your skin.

The important point is that your skin already has a natural process for shedding old surface cells.

This means that not everyone needs a separate exfoliating product.

However, exfoliation can be added to a skincare routine if you want to manage concerns such as rough-looking skin, dullness, or clogged pores.

What Is the Difference Between Physical and Chemical Exfoliation?

Physical Exfoliation

Physical exfoliation removes dead skin cells by directly rubbing the skin, so the tool you use and how much pressure you apply matter.

Common methods include:

  • facial scrubs
  • exfoliating cloths
  • sponges
  • brushes

Scrubs and exfoliating cloths can be used, but rubbing the skin too hard can cause irritation.

Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients that help loosen and remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface instead of relying on friction.

Some of the most common chemical exfoliants in skincare are:

  • AHA
  • BHA
  • PHA

They are all chemical exfoliants, but they have different properties and are commonly used for different skin concerns.

Neither physical nor chemical exfoliation is always better. The right choice depends on your skin and why you want to exfoliate.

Which Should You Choose: AHA, BHA, or PHA?

You do not need to use all three.

Start by thinking about why you want to exfoliate.

Main Skin Concern Ingredient to Consider
Dullness, rough texture, surface-level concerns AHA
Oily skin, clogged pores, blackheads BHA
Gentler exfoliation PHA

AHA

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) is mainly used to exfoliate the skin's surface and improve skin texture.

Common AHAs include glycolic acid and lactic acid. They are often used for rough texture and dull-looking skin.

Learn more about how AHA works for skin texture and dullness.

BHA

In skincare, BHA usually refers to salicylic acid.

BHA is commonly used for concerns such as oily skin, clogged pores, and blackheads.

If excess oil and clogged pores are your main concerns, BHA may be a better place to start.

Learn more about how BHA works for clogged pores and oily skin.

PHA

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid) is another type of hydroxy acid exfoliant.

In skincare, it is generally known as a gentler exfoliating option than AHA.

PHA can be a good option if you prefer a gentler approach to exfoliation.

Learn more about how PHA works as a gentler exfoliant.

How Often Should You Exfoliate?

There is no single answer to the question, “How many times a week should I exfoliate?”

How often you exfoliate can depend on the ingredient, concentration, product type, and your skin.

For example, an AHA cleanser that is rinsed off is used differently from an AHA toner or serum that stays on the skin.

The first step is to check the directions on the product.

If you are new to exfoliation, start about once a week, as long as this fits the product directions, and see how your skin responds.

If your skin becomes unusually tight, red, stings, or feels more sensitive than usual, do not increase the frequency. Reassess your current routine instead.

What Are the Signs of Over-Exfoliation?

Skin feeling smoother after exfoliation is different from skin becoming irritated.

You may be over-exfoliating if you notice:

  • more dryness than usual
  • redness
  • stinging or burning
  • products you normally use suddenly sting
  • unusually tight or uncomfortable skin
  • increased sensitivity

If this happens, instead of adding another exfoliant, reduce how often you exfoliate and check the other active ingredients in your routine.

If your skin continues to feel uncomfortable, stop exfoliating for a while and return to a basic routine focused on gentle cleansing and moisturizing.

If your skin barrier feels weakened, focus on recovery before exfoliating again.

Learn more about how to support a weakened skin barrier.

Can You Use Exfoliants With Retinol or Other Active Ingredients?

Yes, in some routines—but using several active ingredients together is not always better.

Using too many of the following in the same routine can make some skin more prone to dryness and irritation:

  • AHA or BHA
  • retinol or other retinoids
  • scrubs
  • multiple exfoliating products

If you already use retinol or another active ingredient, it is better to add a new exfoliant one at a time and see how your skin responds rather than starting several products at once.

The important thing is to avoid overloading your routine with too many potentially irritating products at the same time.

Learn more about how to use retinol with other skincare ingredients.

Is Sunscreen Important When You Exfoliate?

Sun protection is especially important if you use AHA.

The FDA notes that AHA use can make skin more sensitive to UV exposure.

If you use AHA, make daily sun protection part of your routine.

Sun protection is even more important if you are trying to manage dark spots or uneven skin tone.

Learn more about what causes dark spots and how to manage them.

🇰🇷 Local Note

In Korea, exfoliation itself is not a new skincare concept.

For a long time, Korean bathing culture has included soaking the body in warm water and then scrubbing away dead skin. In public bathhouses, seshin, a full-body scrub using a rough exfoliating cloth, is also well known.

Of course, body scrubbing is not unique to Korea. Many cultures have their own long traditions of bathing and scrubbing. What is interesting about Korea is that strong full-body scrubbing has remained a familiar part of everyday bathing culture.

Today, many international visitors also experience seshin as part of Korean bathhouse or K-spa culture.

Modern Korean facial skincare, however, looks quite different.

Instead of rubbing the face strongly, you are more likely to see easy-to-use products such as toners, serums, and toner pads containing AHA, BHA, or PHA.

So in Korea, traditional strong body scrubbing and modern K-beauty's gentler facial exfoliation exist side by side.

Because strong friction can irritate the skin, seshin is better understood as a distinctive part of Korean bathing culture rather than as a method for exfoliating the face.

FAQ

Should Your Skin Peel After Exfoliation?

No.

Peeling skin is not a sign that exfoliation is working well.

Is an Exfoliating Toner an Exfoliating Product?

Yes. If it contains exfoliating ingredients such as AHA, BHA, or PHA, a toner can be part of your exfoliation routine.

Do not assume it is the same as a regular hydrating toner simply because it is called a toner.

If you also use a scrub, acid serum, or exfoliating pad, it is worth checking how many exfoliating products are already in your routine.

Can You Use a Facial Exfoliant on Your Body?

Depending on the product, you may be able to, but you do not need to.

The skin on the face and body is different, and body exfoliating products may be made with different textures or strengths.

In particular, avoid using a rough body scrub directly on your face.

Sources

  • American Academy of Dermatology — How to Safely Exfoliate at Home
  • American Academy of Dermatology — Keratosis Pilaris: Self-Care
  • DermNet — Structure of the Epidermis
  • U.S. Food & Drug Administration — Alpha Hydroxy Acids / AHA Labeling Guidance
  • PubMed — Research on salicylic acid and polyhydroxy acids

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